The four door styles
Cabinet doors can mount in four ways, each with different sizing math:
- Inset: The door sits flush inside the cabinet opening, surrounded by face frame. Reveal is the gap between door and frame. Most precise, hardest to build (door must be exactly opening size minus 2× reveal).
- Full overlay: The door covers the entire cabinet side, leaving a small reveal gap between adjacent doors. Common on European frameless cabinets.
- Partial overlay: The door covers only part of the face frame (or cabinet side), leaving more visible frame. Traditional American style.
- Reveal overlay: Two doors on one cabinet, with a center reveal between them. Often called "lipped" or "rabbeted."
Face frame vs frameless: the key difference
Face frame cabinets have a 3/4" × 1-1/2" wood frame around the front. The doors are sized to fit the openings in this frame.
Frameless (European) cabinets have no face frame. The cabinet boxes have 3/4" thick sides that the doors mount to. Standard overlay is 1/2" - 3/4" per door.
The hinge placement differs:
- Face frame: Hinges mount on the face frame, door swings from there.
- Frameless: Hinges mount on the cabinet side, door mounts to the side.
The reveal standard
The "reveal" is the visible gap between door and frame (or between two doors). It's both functional (allows the door to open without binding) and aesthetic.
- Inset doors: 1/16" reveal typical (tight)
- Full overlay (European): 1/8" between adjacent doors, 1/8" to face frame
- Partial overlay (American): 1" - 1-1/4" of face frame visible between doors
Wood movement requires larger reveals for inset doors in solid wood — minimum 1/8" to allow for seasonal expansion.
Hinge math
European cup hinges require precise placement:
- From top edge: Typically 2" - 3" (depending on door weight and hinge specification)
- From bottom edge: Same distance from bottom as from top
- From hinge side: 0.375" (35mm cup diameter) typical — the cup is centered 3/8" from the edge
For heavy doors, add a third hinge in the middle. For tall doors (>40"), use four hinges.
Door sizing for each style
Inset door: Width = Opening Width − 2 × Reveal. Height = Opening Height − 2 × Reveal.
Full overlay (frameless): Width = Opening Width + 2 × Overlay. Height = Opening Height + 2 × Overlay. Overlay typically 3/4".
Partial overlay (face frame): Width = Opening Width + 2 × Overlay. Overlay typically 3/8" - 1/2".
Two doors on one cabinet: Each door = (Opening Width − Reveal between doors) / 2 + Overlay.
Common door-sizing mistakes
- Forgetting the reveal on inset doors. A door that's exactly the opening size will bind when humidity changes.
- Wrong overlay amount for European hinges. The hinge geometry is designed for a specific overlay. Different hinge brands have different geometries.
- Ignoring door thickness. Thicker doors need more clearance on the hinge side.
- Not accounting for door swing. Make sure the door can swing open without hitting adjacent walls or cabinets.
Why inset doors are the hardest
Inset doors must be exactly the opening size minus 2× reveal. That's typically 1/8" tolerance on each dimension — for a 14" door, that's a 1% tolerance. Wood movement (across a 14" width, oak moves about 1/16" seasonally) can exceed the entire reveal.
Solutions: use quartersawn stock (less movement), use plywood panels for the door, allow 3/16" reveal on each side, and use a humidity-controlled shop.
Frequently asked questions
What's the most common overlay amount?
For European frameless: 3/4" overlay, 1/8" reveal between doors. For American face frame: 1/2" overlay, with 1" - 1-1/4" of face frame visible.
How do I make sure my doors hang straight?
Use European cup hinges — they have three-way adjustment (in-out, up-down, left-right). Spend $5-10 per hinge for the adjustable ones.
Should I use soft-close hinges?
Soft-close hinges are a luxury feature. Add $5-15 per hinge. Worth it for kitchens, less so for workshop cabinets.